Asian Skin

Chloasma, Melasma, and Hyperpigmentation

Asian skin is considered to be one of the most sensitive skin types. It has fewer hair follicles and, thus, a smoother surface. It also is firmer over the general bone structure and has greater elasticity, both of benefit when growing older. Unfortunately it can be hyperpigmentation. The damage that we see on a person’s skin actually starts many years before it is noticeable. It may be that the person was over exposure to sun and or heat at some stage and DNA in a single melannocyte was damaged. If the DNA controlling the production of melanin is affected, then the melannocyte makes an excessive amount of melanin. The cell, in fact, has lost control of melanin formation. Over time this single cell multiplies and gradually grows into a visible patch of cells that is making more melanin than the surrounding skin.

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Asian skin is more prone to what is known as hyperpigmentation. In older people this as manifested in what are sometimes called “liver spots” and are a darkening of small areas on the back of the hands, or on the face or arm. To avoid “liver spots”, the use of sunscreen is necessary for protection from the sun. It is necessary for your appearance and for the health of your skin, now and in the future. Melanin also causes skin that is healing from a scrape or cut to be darker in color than the undisturbed area. Gradually, as the skin’s surface cells slough off, the healing area will return to normal skin tone and color. It also is possible that this melanin content will cause the skin to take more time to heal or in some cases, to heal with an excess of scar tissue. One of the positive effects of melanin is that helps to protect skin against skin cancer. Asian people are less likely to have skin cancer than lighter skinned people.

TREATMENTS FOR PIGMENTATION

Treating pigmentation marks on Asian skin requires extra care because Asian skin is easily damaged. It is best to use safe ingredients such as vitamin A, C, Citric Acid, Arbutin, and Lactic Acid to try and lighten pigmentation marks. In conjunction with these, antioxidants and/ or oral antioxidants should be used as well as topical products because vitamin C is useful in lightening pigmentation only if adequate sun protection is being used.

Ochronosis

When treating Asian skin, caution is required because the skin is sensitive and pigmentation changes can be very obvious. Arbutin is one of the most effective agents to treat hyperpigmentation and melasma. It works well, is a cytotoxic, inhibits tyrosine, and can kill the melanocyte.

Hydroquinone is also one of the most effective agents to treat hyperpigmentation and melasma but prolonged use of hydroquinone may eventually lead to a condition called ochronosis, a disease caused by an abnormality in tyrosine metabolism. Since hydroquinone affects tyrosine, it is not surprising that a topical agent can cause a systemic disease.

Deep peel is not recommended for Asian skin. Asian skin that has been peeled due to pigmentation marks results in a good initial response, but eventually the mark becomes both darker and larger than before the treatment. Peeling on Asian skin may destroy superficial melannocyte because they are immediately below the epidermis. However, some melanocytes may lie deeper than the acid can penetrate and after a short while they will find other cells with which to attach and transfer pigment, eventually causing the mark to return.

Hydroquinone also is dangerous to use on Asian skin because of possible complications. Many years ago a large Japanese cosmetic company introduced a range of skin lightening products but after a short while removed the product from the market. Many Japanese women had used the product and experienced the pleasure of the initial lightening and then the dreadful darkening of the skin when the product was discontinued. As a result, the Japanese government passed a law forbidding the use of hydroquinone in cosmetics in Japan. These users’ skin was subsequently more sensitive to UV rays and if their skin was not thoroughly protected from UV rays, then the rays would penetrate deeply into the skin and damage and stimulate melanocytes to a greater extent than before, making the mark return and enlarge. Harsh exfoliating agents such as scrub should be avoided also.

The most important point is to protect the skin with a sunscreen that is especially strong in the UVA range. Look at the list of ingredients and identify the sunscreen agents. Most broad spectrum products have benzophenone, oxybenzone, butyl methoxydibenzoymethane, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide, that provide much better though still inadequate protection from UVA.

Products Recommended:

• Brightening Exfoliant Powder
• Smoothing Toner
• Retinol Complex
• Pigment Gel
• Brightening Cream
• Lightening Mask